HomeThe Victorian Era (continued)
In the Late Victorian Era, styles once again became lighter and more delicate. Delicate pendants of pearls and colored stones were popular in the 1880's. Diamonds continued to increase in popularity. Spring mechanisms were used on many pieces of jewelry. The nature theme was used literally as genuine scarabs and claws were set in metal. Archeological expeditions in Egypt, Italy, and Greece captured the imagination of the Victorians and greatly influenced late Victorian jewelry. Two noteworthy designers of ancient jewelry were Castellani and Giulano, whose works are still sought after today. Reproductions were made of Greek, Roman, Egyptian and Etruscan styles, including cameos and mosaics.
Two popular design types that originated during the Victorian Era were Cannetille and Repousse. Cannetille is a wirework decoration that uses coiled and twisted gold to achieve a delicate scrolling effect and create elaborate designs. Repousse, a metalworking technique where the metal is ornamented or shaped by hammering from the back side, is identifiable for its solid forms with raised and fluted edges that gives the jewelry a massive quality.
Jewelers of the Victorian Era experimented with techniques to change the look and texture of gold. Experimentation was spurred on as gold became less expensive to work with, a result of new found sources of gold and relaxed gold standards (after 1854, jewelry could be made in 9K, 12K, and 15K, rather than just 18K gold). Intricate gold designs included elaborate engraving, scroll work, filigree, granulation, chasing, in addition to cannetille, repousse and multicolor gold work.
Semi-precious stones were widely used as they were affordable for many Victorians. Popular stones were garnet, amethyst, coral, turquoise, seed pearls, and opals (one of Victoria's favorite stones).
How did Victorian fashion influence Victorian jewelry?
Victorian fashions were fairly voluminous during the Victorian period. The styles of the early decades were full skirts, petticoats, long sleeves, and lace collars. With the introduction of hoops and crinolines in the mid-century, the silhouette expanded. The skirts of the 1870's were adorned with bustles and trains, flounces and fringe. As women became more active in work and leisure towards the end of the century, their dress became more tailored. Similarly, jewelry in the Mid-Victorian 1860's and 1870's became very massive, and returned to a lighter, delicate styles in later years.
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